One reason I keep coming back to Singapore is the food and particularly the food in the hawker centres. I love it because within each hawker centre there are individual craftsman who have been passing on recipes over generations.
In this post:
What is a Hawker Centre?
Hawker centres grew out of the need to provide clean, low cost food to the local residents of Singapore post independence. As they are mainly controlled by the government they are traditionally located under or near the Housing Board Developments (referred to as HDB’s).
They provide reliable food options to workers, families and travellers alike.
The great thing about the hawker centres is its a true melting pot with Indian, Chinese, Malaysian, Indonesian and the local Peranakan cuisines. They are all found under the same roof so you can mix and match depending on how hungry you are…
Tip: if you see a tissue pack on a seat or table then the seat/table is taken. The owner of the pack has reserved the seat and is just waiting for their food. Don’t be afraid to grab your table first with a tissue pack or umbrella and then go searching for your meal.
Having spent some time living there and now visiting once or twice a year, I have collected some favourites that I always take time to visit. Here is my current top 5 hawker centres:
Newton Circus Food Centre
Many first time visitors to Singapore head straight to the Newton Circus Food Centre to order BBQ stingray. As a former resident of Singapore and twice a year visitor, this is the last place I would visit and the last dish I would order.
What I’ve collected is some of my favourite food centres and the dishes that make them so popular.
Amoy Street Hawker Centre
Mainly a mid-week choice, Amoy Street is one of the few remaining original shop house streets in Singapore. At the end of Amoy Street is the two story hawker centre and on the ground floor is the Famous Crispy Curry Puff . There are only three types of curry puff available: anchovy, chicken and pepper chicken. Prices start at $1.40 so you can try all three. They are hot, salty and absolutely delicious. They are made fresh every day and are Julie’s #1 choice.
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Maxwell Street Hawker Centre
Just over Ann Siang Hill from Amoy street is Maxwell Hawker centre. Famous for the Tian Tian Hainese Chicken Rice. There are a number of chicken rice sellers at Maxwell. Tian Tian is at the back of the centre. It cant be missed because it occupies two stalls and has a queue snaking around the back.
Tip Avoid Tian Tian on a Sunday lunchtime if you can as the queues are huge.
The other must try is popiah, a hot (both heat and taste) Indonesian salad, nuts, egg, and mystery crepe roll. I have not found popiah this good in any other hawker centre or back home. They will be cut into four disks, so best to buy two to make sharing non controversial. This is the food I take family and friends to as it is just something you cant get back home
Zion Riverside Hawker Centre
If you follow the Singapore river from the city past Robertson Quay you will eventually find Zion Hawker Centre on the right hand side. I recommend you take the footpath the whole way along the river. It’s a great way to get a feel for this part of the city. If you are lucky you might even see the Singapore Otters en route.
Two call outs here. The first is the Zion Road Fried Kway Teoh. Lots of blogs claims this is one of the best in town and I agree. Another long queue ahead so my recommendation is to split you team.
While someone is waiting for the fried kway teoh you can then head further down for the satay sticks and chicken wings. You can get lots of good satay in Singapore and Chong Pang Village at Zion is one of them. The sauce is delicious and paired with onion and cucumber.
I usually try all three ie chicken, mutton and pork as I just cant decide which i like best. At 70c each they are a steal.
Next stop is to grab a beer or crushed cane sugar, sit under one of the overhead fans and relax.
Lau Pa Sat Hawker Centre
Every evening from 7pm Boon Tat Street comes alive. Hawkers set up their BBQ’s and start cooking their meat served with delicious satay sauce. Unbelievably during the day it is a regular street and within a few hours it is transformed.
I don’t have a favourite as it is rather chaotic and they all claim they are the best in Singapore!!. However I have never been disappointed with the food. As soon as you turn up you get accosted by satay salesmen, be confident to say no until you know what you want. You can order a package or just a few items. The choice is yours.
Lau Pa Sat is well located if you are staying at the Fullerton or Sofitel So. Make sure you keep a night free to enjoy the experience.
You can also order beer from the Tiger Beer ladies, which beats having to get up and find it.
After you finish your satay you can then go into the Hawker Centre proper for another local speciality: the Iced Kacang. This is a shaved ice and syrup concoction. It has sweet beans, corn, condensed milk and unknown jelly bits. A great way to cool down after a hot day and satay.
Chomp Chomp
The last on the list is a lot further out of town. If you want an even more genuine experience then catch a taxi to Chomp Chomp. One of the smaller centres however famous for their stingray. My local friends Richard and Lillian really rate it. I find it an acquired taste, and don’t plan to acquire it. The good news is there are lots of other great choices
Hawker centre map of Singapore
Conveniently the Singapore government publishes a hawker centre map to help you find a centre not in my top 5!
Summary: Singapore has some of the best food in the world.. Get out of the shopping malls and the tourist traps and eat like a local. You wont be disappointed.
